I then use clips to pin the interfacing to the back to the fabric, having the wrong side of the fabric to the right side of the fleece. That way you have the woven interfacing showing on the back. I make sure to clip while I have the fabric on a flat surface, clipping one side at a time and pushing the wave down. The goal is to have the fabric match the interfacing as you know that it is a true piece of the pattern.
Once it is all clipped I then baste down one side at a time, stop there and then move unto the next side. This way you are not distorting the pattern piece. If once I have basted all the sides and the fabric is a bit off, and hanging over the interfacing, I will trim the fabric. This step with the interfacing is very important if you wish to keep your bag true to size and shape. If not, and you try to take the bag apart afterwards, you will have sewing line showing on the bag. It is worth the little extra work at this point in your project. I will interface the lining of the bag the normal way, for whatever the pattern calls for.
If you are sewing a pattern that doesn't need the structure and no lining needed, I just cut the fabric out and start sewing. As the plastic fabric is a lot like a typical canvas weight. I have even sewn a zipper into my one lunch bag, it didn't have a lining in it. I sewed the zipper right onto the fabric without an extra interfacing, it held up just find.
With the extra interfacing in the bag it will keep it's shape. It is also strong enough that I was able to use magnetic snaps on the front.
Now that you know and how to make and sew plastic fabric, I hope you come up with some cool uses for this fabric.
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